February 9, 2010 | Rome, Italy | Partly Cloudy, 10°C

Up in the air

Milan's toxic air goes from bad to worse to worse still, with little immediate improvement in sight or mind.


Church as overlord

Italy's industrious organization of atheists and agnostics faces a daunting challenge.


Monopoly's gift

If you're a foreigner in Italy, remember you have an ace to play when it matters.


Let there be polenta!

Assisi is home both to a deeply modest saint and profoundly irresistible cornmeal.


FEATURES

Area 51

Burned sons

Italy may not work, but that doesn't mean it lacks ingenuity.

La Straniera

White-lie city

Sometimes Rome expatriates are so eager to impress that they make themselves up.

American Girl

Sunlight

Social networking is 'real' and vibrant in its own way. But so is loneliness.

Man About Rome

Duality

Once you get Italian citizenship, you can laugh about being called Mr. iPod. Or can you?

Due Diligence

Unbreathable

What does a dirty city do to clean up its act? Nothing.

Milan Notebook

Naming names

Economists Alberto Alesina and Andrea Ichino write about "homemade" Italy.


PREGNANT IN ROME

Total body


LIVING

The L-Word

Rush

He found her enchanting. She found him intriguing. Next stop…

Bella Figura

Dr. Pepper

How do you tell your Italian husband that all those refills come in one sitting?

Parenthood

Lollipops

Traveling with a toddler demands secret weapons.

Wonderland

Orbits

Falling in love means enduring unheated corridors, and laughing about it.

Abroad

Out-of-jail bait

Americans in Italy have an ace to play when it matters most.


TRAVEL

The Casual Traveler

Fun with Fjords

Norway in winter? Who do you think you are, The Beatles?

The Hiker

Beyond St. Moritz

If you want to hike cross-country ski far from the madding crowd, try Swiss Val Roseg.


WHERETOEAT

V for Vo

Tasty Ristorante Vo shows off Turin's youthful, stylish side.


TOURIST Q&A

Money needs

Should I go with cash, plastic or traveler's checks on an Italian trip?


WHAT'SON

110 for 2010

Dave Matthews Band, Kasabian and Spandau Ballet. Also, films in English.


FOOD

Da Germano

Saving grace

Reinventing left-over food has an Italian name: la frittata.

Annie's Kitchen

My casseroles

Though they may be scowled on by gourmet chefs, casseroles exude allure.

Suzanne's Taste

Citronelle

Give your lemons an honest day's work.

Apicius

St. Francis to polenta

Assisi produced both an austere man and tastily thick cornmeal.

Lynda's Wine

Sheep wine

So you think pecorino is all about cheese? Think again.


FILM

PICKS&PUNTS: Up in the Air

It's the women characters, not George Clooney, that save Jason Reitman's modest film.

DVDS: Someone to Watch Over Me

In the "Blade Runner" shadow, Ridley Scott's Big Apple homage stumbles.


BOOKS

THE A-LIST: Ransom

David Malouf's remarkable "habitation" of The Iliad is as good as he, and it, gets.

SCRIPTORIUM: Carnival duo

Peter Ackroyd and Donna Léon honor Venice.









PHOTO ALBUM
Lead years
FICTION
Cara Diaconoff
WHITE LIES
The Rome norm
TRAVEL
Norwegian water
BACK STAGE
Role playing