October 30, 2014 | Rome, Italy | Sunny 21°C

Marketplace rules

Putting your local market ahead of a supermarket can be a joy, but first you need to learn the ropes.

Toby and Pico

After a bad breakup, Ada meets a man with a nearly irresistible "accessory."

Meet Erotic Pea

Ever wondered the names of Serie A players in the world's only real language, English? Read on.


Believing in a guardian angel has less to do with faeries and more with trusting in the good.

Coming of age

How a unique art show has revived what was once a Midwest city's downtown wasteland.


Area 51


Rome has gone from noisy to noisier, but no one can hear the transformation.

American Girl

The longing

A home can be grand and its rooms spacious, but that can miss the point.


Pain by any name

Killing minor human pain can seem like a simple process. In fact, it's anything but.

Fuori Mappa

Angel's rise

Fashion filmmaker Stewart MacLennan uses Calvino to "reinvent" beleaguered Los Angeles.

Milan Notebook

The trunk

Opening a family trunk reveals the poignant and often painful details of a century-old yesteryear.

Psych Dept.

The complaint department

Working to suppress loss by keeping a smile on your face can lead into harm's way.

La Una

Little engines that do

Going from a glitzy job to a more modest (and more satisfying) one can be joyous.

In the Sticks

Not quite Armageddon

Recent La Maremma flooding saw too many locals prefer online posting to shoveling out.

History 102

Father of invention

Italian Antonio Meucci is overlooked in a telephone-invention saga focused on Alexander Graham Bell.


House of the heart, II


Closing Argument

House of the heart, II

When it comes to handing down American vacation property, an LLC has its advantages.


The Economist

The copper tip-off

Copper theft over the last decade reflects a commodity price boom that is only now slowing.


The Game

Mr. Erotic Pea

Ever wondered what Serie A players are called in the world's only real language, English? Read on.



Toby and Pico

After a bad New York breakup, "Look, over there. A man with a puppy dog!"


The vanishing act

Being an American in Rome can make you crazy. Now then, try getting a driver's license.

Lost in Translation

Barbie's vagina

Getting sunspots removed can lead you into the (alarming) world of female cosmetic surgery.

2nd Generation

Uncomfortable injustices

Too often, skin color allows Italians to ignore their country's widening multiracialism.

That's Queer

Real cool

If you're gay, size matters, as does the courage to ignore fashion world archetypes.



Coming of age

A Midwest city's downtown wasteland has been recharged by an unusual art competition.

The Farm


Believing in guardian angels has less to do with faeries and more with a sense of good.


"The pen is paralyzed..."

Once, so-called purple prose ruled disaster coverage, and it's making a comeback.

Rye Wyt


When your nephew doesn't like what you have on your Kindle, say as little as possible.



Synth man

Lecce-born Massimiliano Pagliara swears by the old to synth in the new.


Insides out

Long associated with offal and innards, Rome's Testaccio now offers considerably more.


The power riddle

Deciding whether 3 kilowatts suffices in your flat depends mostly on appliances.


Into fall

Ronald Harwood's 1980 play "The Dresser" in Rome, also films in English.


In Provincia

The fifth sense

Umani is associated with Japan and MSG, but Italy has a long tradition of flavor bombs.

Suzanne's Taste

Currying flavors

Making good curry can seem daunting, but follow some basic rules can make it easier.

Pete Pescatore

Meet Pete

Pete Pescatore is a mystery man with a detective's pallet and penchant for being quenched.

Vino Infinito

How it all began

Learning to love wine can sometimes emerge from a childhood of hating it.

Da Germano

Satanic majesties

Pope Francis has revived Vatican pilgrimages, but he's not the only recession-beater.

In Cucina

Marketplace rules

Putting your local market ahead of supermarkets means "relearning" how to shop.


IN FOCUS: Three Colors: Blue (Trois couleurs: Bleu)

The first of Krzysztof Kieslowśki's colors trilogy is carried away by Juliette Binoche.

1,001 MOVIES: The Signal

Director William Eubank's engrossing sci-fi focuses on the risks of knowing too much.

ON FILM: Lies and grit

"Shattered Glass" gets to the underbelly of journalism, while "The Hill" is the underbelly of life itself.


DON'T MISS: Zeno's Conscience

Italo Svevo's remarkable Zeno Cosini has the pedigree of a 21st-century neurotic.

SCRIPTORIUM: Kat Zet, née Auschwitz

British novelist Martin Amis offers a fierce satire to revive ever-vital Holocaust themes.

FICTION PICKS: The Underground Man

Ross MacDonald's Lew Archer endures as a detective ahead of his time.

Everything you need to know about visiting or moving to Tuscany, Italy.

Real cool
Purple prose
Antonio Meucci
The trunk
Aka "Nightmare"