November 20, 2017 | Rome, Italy | °C
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Restaurants in Marche

La Cantina del Palazzo Vineria  


Home of Pope Pius VIII.

Upstairs the "family" pope, Pius VIII, was born, ate and slept. Now his descendants run a fine restaurant with excellent food and professional service. Smooth saffron pumpkin soup takes off a chill in the breezy town nicknamed "Le Marche’s balcony." Good gnocchi with funghi porcini and truffles. Veal roast en croute has a continental flair. “We’d have done better if our pope had hung in there in longer than a year and a half,” notes the vivacious countess. Nevertheless, they still have the palace above and their domain extends to spinning pizzas at prices even the locals can afford in the adjacent more informal vineria. Open Fri., Sat. from 6 p.m.; Sunday from 12 p.m.; Tues.-Thurs. by reservation only. — Judy Edelhoff

 
Via Benedetto da Cingoli (I Ponti), 30, Cingoli, IT-MC Map
Tel. 0733.602.531
Closed Mondays


La Cantineta  


Pinturicchio's Ancona.

The bar-trattoria is a short walk from Ancona’s port, Piazza della Repubblica, and Teatro le Muse, this is a monument to what a fish trattoria should be: simple, friendly, efficient and a little noisy with excellent fish that pleased even a finicky Florentine curator and Venetian bon vivants. Zesty pasta with sardines or allo scoglio were made with homemade tagliolini and served piping hot, as were the exquisite sardinini (fried sardines). Stoccafisso all’anconetana is Raffaele’s signature dish: cod — cured more gently and with less salt than its Roman cousin — roasted with tomatoes and potatoes is good solid comfort food. Puntarelli, raw bitter-fresh curly pale greens that rarely make an appearance outside Rome, are regulars on the menu. Closed Monday night. — Judy Edelhoff

Visa/Mastercard  
Via Gramsci, 1/C, Ancona, IT-AN Map
Tel. 071.201.107
Closed Mondays


Natura e Profumi  


Rosso Conero from Maria.

Maria the Herb Lady serves great food in her modest country house. Her lawn wouldn't cut it an American planned community: the waist-high weeds grow like wildfire. After dining you’re glad they do — you ate some of them. Here one can still observe the birds and the bees over Le Marche’s green dolce hills. Reminder not to miss dessert, which follows superb food like pasta with pesto from the herb of the day followed perhaps by rabbit in porchetta with wild fennel. Excellent red Rosso Conero or other local wines.

The overall meal tab is likely to weigh in under €30. You can walk it off later outside in a nature stroll over the hills. Go for lunch and make a blissful afternoon of it. Phone several days in advance (and get directions). By reservation only. — Judy Edelhoff

Bank Cards (Bancomat)  
Via Duomo, 17 (Avenale di Cingoli), Cingoli, IT-MC Map
Tel. 0733.610.269/348.336.6359


Osteria del Nonno  


Madonna dell'Ambro is wooded an

Lunch by a babbling brook next to the crystalline Ambro River at the edge of a forest in the foothills of the mountains that divide Le Marche and Abruzzo named for Sibyls of Apollo. Head for Paola Pieroni’s shack just to the left of the medieval church Madonna dell'Ambro (in Localitá Ambro near the town of Montefortino). Delicious girella, a spiral lasagna filled with spinach and tangy sheep-milk ricotta cheese. Assorted grilled meats but the local lamb is the best. Order the house wine, a simple red table variety from the other side of the mountain. Open Easter to December. — Judy Edelhoff

 
Localitá Ambro, Montefortino, IT-AP Map
Tel. 333.791.9961


Uliassi  


A man and his magic...

Fish and seafood so exquisitely prepared makes Uliassi a contender for best seafood meal in Italy. Flavors pop, enhanced to their best in imaginative combinations without eccentric excess. Flawless service. The bright, airy interior and outdoor veranda overlook the Adriatic Sea. Basket of exquisite breads (black with sepia ink, onion foccacia). Non-fish eaters might choose game birds or other specials. Champagne pairs well with fish appetizers. Excellent wine selection of whites, plus plenty for red wine enthusiasts: Barbera pairs well with raw fish; or with main courses swish down reasonably priced local and exotically floral Lacrima di Morro D’Alba by Mario Lucchetti. Desserts can be decadent or homemade ice creams like ginger or pistachio. This culinary genius does not come cheap, but the value is excellent. Lunch/dinner. Closed for a week in early or mid-August; check. — Judy Edelhoff

Major Credit Cards  
Banchina di Levante, 6, Senigallia, IT-AN Map
Tel. 071.65463
http://www.uliassi.it
Closed Mondays



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