November 24, 2017 | Rome, Italy | °C
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Restaurants in Liguria

Da Genio  


Acciughe ripiene: stuffed anchovies.

Seafood salad to die for at this mainstay located off Via Fieschi at the top of a steep hill above Piazza Dante. Yes, try the trenette al pesto (linguine with pesto sauce) because, well, you have to: This is Genoa, after all. But seafood is the strength here (spaghetti al sugo di pesce) et al. Closed in August. — Cristina Polli

Visa/Mastercard  
Salita San Leonardo, 61r, Genoa, IT-GE Map
Tel. 010.588.463
http://www.mangiareinliguria.it/dagenio/
Closed Sundays


Da Maria  


Maria & company...

The namesake of this hole in the wall (literally and figuratively) near the Carlo Felice has been working at the burners since the 1940s. She’s Maria Mante. It’s a no-frills eatery where tables and conversations are shared with complete strangers. Both the risotto and gelato are called buonissimo, and they are. The menu — traditional Genoese, pesto & co. — never changes much, but why fiddle with a good thing? Anya von Bremsen got it right when she called the food and the presentation here no-frills but "completely essential." Closed for dinner two days a week. — Elisabetta Povoledo

Major Credit Cards  
Via Testadoro, 14r, Genoa, IT-GE Map
Tel. 010.581.080
Closed Mondays, Closed Saturday


Da Rina  


Cima alla Genovese.

Several eateries boast of being Genoa’s oldest but this family-run restaurant off the old port (in the appropriately named Zona Aquaria) is the likely contest winner. It serves traditional Genoese cuisine — i.e. cod done up in various guises — along with focaccia. Also, cima alla Genovese, classic stuffed veal breast served as a cold-cut in summer. — Elisabetta Povoledo

Major Credit Cards  
Mura delle Grazie, 3, Genoa, IT-GE Map
Tel. 010.246.6475
http://www.ristorantedarina.it
Closed Mondays


La Berlocca  


Berlocca's bistro feel...

There’s an osteria-bistro flavor in this converted take-out, as well as a sense that traditional dishes really don’t have to follow a set pattern. That’s the fun of it. Enrico Reboscio likes Ligurian cuisine but he’s not reluctant to play around with it. What he may be past at is the Italian equivalent of surf-and-turf. Consider taglierini neri con gamberi. (black pasta with crayfish and ginger), piccagge matte al pesto (chestnut pasta with pesto), stoccafisso accomodato alla genovese (stockfish with potatoes, onions, pine nuts, and tomato sauce), and filetto con mele, curry, e calvados (curried beef filet ith apples and Calvados liqueur). Have taste of piccagge matte,pasta made from chestnut flour (which cost less in the day). — Cristina Polli

Visa/Mastercard  
Via del Macelli di Soziglia, 45r, Genoa, IT-GE Map
Tel. 010.247.4162
Closed Mondays


La Bitta nella Pergola  


Crema parmantier: cod with white truffles.

When Rosa and Raffaele Balzano moved to Genoa from Naples years ago, they brought with them rich southern flavors and sunny hospitality. This elegant, expensive restaurant got its first Michelin star in 2003 — deserved recognition for a dedication to quality and originality. The tuna and legume terrine is a show-stopper, and Raffaele's handmade chocolates are to die for. Michelin suggestions: Sformato di stoccafisso con pesto leggero, stockfish in light pesto, Spaghetti alla chitarra con pesce e bottarga di tonno, spaghetti with fish and dried mullet roe (poor man's caviar), and Trilogia di cioccolato extrabitter e crema alla lavanda, extra-bitter chocolate "triology" with lavander cream. Closed for Sunday dinner and Aug. 8-28. — Elisabetta Povoledo

Major Credit Cards  
Via Giuseppe Casaregis, 52, Genoa, IT-GE Map
Tel. 010.588.543
http://www.labittanellapergola.com
Closed Mondays


Östaja dö Castello  


Loud but tidy...

Family-run trattoria that’s located in the old town and focuses on fish and seafood specialities. It’s loud but tidy. Try polpo con patate and gamberi alla griglia. Also taglierini with lobster (all’astice). You can get out of here sated and having spent under €30 a head. The name means "osteria" of the castle in Genovese dialect. — Cristina Polli

Visa/Mastercard  
Salita Santa Maria di Castello, 32r, Genoa, IT-GE Map
Tel. 010.246.8980
http://www.ostajadocastello.com
Closed Sundays


Osteria di Vico Palla  


Packed in at Vico Palla.

This il Molo semi-dive got a cheerful rave from The New York Times in 2006, but thankfully hasn't changed character. The kitchen's in view and the food straight-up Genoa/Liguria: mandilli (pasta triangles) with pesto; pansotti (herb-and-cheese stuffed ravioli in nut sauce); trofie (pasta corkscrews) with ink and octopus, or with fish and olives; salt cod fritters. Ownership recommends stockfish, pointing out that Flemish painter Van Dyck stopped here to eat just that in the 1620s. He left his BlackBerry in Holland. — Cristina Polli

Major Credit Cards  
Vico Palla, 15r, Genoa, IT-GE Map
Tel. 010.246.6575
http://www.vicopalla.it/
Closed Mondays


Pintori  


Fritto misto at Pintori.

Interesting mix of Ligurian and Sardinian dishes in this family-run trattoria around since the 1950s (Genoa has plenty of Sardinian "exiles"). Vegetarian dishes such as torte di verdura pop up. Or go for the polpo alla catalana, in a sweet-and-sour pepper sauce. The thin pane carasau has the same effect as pistachios or Indian papadum — you keep eating it. Inexpensive and serious cooking that tastes great. — Cristina Polli

Visa/Mastercard  
Via Di San Bernardo, 68r, Genoa, IT-GE Map
Tel. 010.275.507
Closed Sundays, Closed Mondays


Ugo  


Great cheap eats.

Totally unsophisticated, but who cares? Regulars pack this place near San Donato and their reward is pesto and seafood at extremely affordable prices. If you want to taste pesto Genovese unmanipulated by fusion chefs, come here. But book ahead. — Cristina Polli

Visa/Mastercard  
Via Giustiniani, 86r, Genoa, IT-GE Map
Tel. 010.246.9302
Closed Sundays, Closed Mondays


Zefferino  


Pesto's popularizer...

Founded in 1939, Zeffirino has accumulated plenty of tourist and celebrity cred over the decades ( “Ambassador of Italian Cuisine” and so on). Kudos to owner Zeffirino Belloni for his tireless efforts in the service of pesto, which he helped popularize, but his place, while absolutely gracious, suffers from some of the over-exposure plague that has afflicted Alfredo in Rome. Yes, Frank Sinatra and Luciano Pavarotti came here, but those days are over (or maybe just moved to Las Vegas and Hong Kong, where the restaurant has branches in the The Venetian Resort Hotel Casino and the Regal Hotel, respectively). Yes, the pesto is still a welcome staple. But the Italo-French menu is static, the sense of the inventive minimal, with laurels rested on. That said, it still makes for an expensive if honest evening of good seafood, fine desserts, and an ample wine list. — David R. Deropolous

Major Credit Cards  
Via alla Porta degli Archi, 2/r, Genoa, IT-GE Map
Tel. 010 591990/579.5939
http://www.zeffirino.com
Closed Wednesdays



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