April 22, 2018 | Rome, Italy | °C
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Restaurants in Trastevere

Al Regno di Re Ferdinando II  

Delectable arancini.

This is Naples in Rome. Loud, hearty, and affectionate, Re offers up heavy-duty southern fare in abundant doses. Antipasti (delectable arancini, cheese and rice balls) can be a meal for some (beware, eat four of these and you've closed out your meal....) Pizzas overlap the edges of plates by a country mile. The lasagna is delicious, so is the linguine aglio e olio, garlic and olive oil. Reservations recommended. Parking is very — take a cab. — Cristina Polli

Major Credit Cards  
Via di Affogalasino, 123A, Rome, IT-RM Map
Tel. 06.6574.5326
Closed Sundays

Antica Pesa  

No longer for peasants...

Originally a 17th century "cafeteria" for Papal State customs officials who worked down the street. Since contadini had to come to deliver grain to church HQ, the Vatican, they too had munching time on their hands. Later, it became a Trastevere inn based around a bocce alley. The owners now explain that the food of the period was based on subsistence eating (taking and re-inventing upper class left-overs). Fair enough, but times change. Colin Ferrell, Sean Penn, and La Loren, while no doubt famished, are not contadini. Be that as it may, the Rome food gang’s all here: mezze maniche all’amatriciana, cacio e pepe, carbonara, gricia plus stinco, salsiccia, rombo and baccala. The cantina is vast enough to have spawned an enoteca (called DILA, from Di Là) on the side. The scene is elegant (lovely fireplace in winter), so please leave the Red Sox t-shirt at the hotel. Usually closed for two weeks in early January and late April. Near Piazza Trilussa. Book ahead. — Cristina Polli

Major Credit Cards  
Via Garibaldi, 18, Rome, IT-RM Map
Tel. 06.580.9236
Closed Sundays

Bir & Fud  

Beer and pizza at Piazza Trilussa.

Popular, bustling pizzeria/restaurant on Piazza Trilussa in Trastevere. The foreign student crowd packs this place to the nines for a reason — the beer ("beer and food," get it?). B&F has foreign and local brews as well as microbrewery labels and malts (they have their own shop/microbrewery at Via Luca Valerio, 41).

If you want to munch, order patate come sforno comanda, bronzed, hand-cut fries. A different take on bruschetta comes in the form of Ciauscolo e Silano (sausage from Abruzzo and the Marche). Non-pizza lovers also get ricotta mousse, supplì all'amatriciana, carbonara and pasta alla gricia (bacon and pecorino).

Strange as it sounds, the pizza is good but not tops. As often happens with pizza joints, the "conventional" menu gets lost in the shuffle. Advice: Let others splurge on the pizza while you focus on appetizers and pasta. Booking essential. Expect to spend €15/20 to 40 a head, depending on alcohol. — Cristina Polli

Major Credit Cards  
Via Benedetta, 23, Rome, IT-RM Map
Tel. 06.5894.016
Open Daily

Cacio & Pepè a Trastevere  

Pasta all’Amatriciana.

A neighborhood-specific restaurant-grill that offers a "menu di degustazione cucina tipica Romana" for €20. The place is also Wi-Fi equipped, but that's not a menu item — yet. Nice buffet with fried foods, including fiori di zucca and a variety of frittatine. Pasta cacio e pepe goes without saying. Also, bucatini all’Amatriciana and homemade sweets. Nothing new, startling or exciting here, but no rude surprises, which is good thing to know in Trastevere. — Cristina Polli

Major Credit Cards  
Vicolo del Cinque, 15, Rome, IT-RM Map
Tel. 06.5833.4289
Closed Mondays

Da Felice  

Cacio e peppe Da Felice.

A Testaccio institution, this reputable trattoria reopened its doors after a 2005 makeover. Now, it's trendy and anonymous in the mold of many eateries in the global village. That’s sad, yes. But it's impossible to get a table here (you must know a Roman with connections), a sign that it's still serving up the Real McCoy: Try cacio e pepe or carbonara, followed by involtini or saltimbocca — all exemplary of simple Roman goodness. Vast wine list, tempting desserts. Leave the diet at home. — Kristine Crane

Via Mastro Giorgio, 29, Rome, IT-RM Map
Tel. 06.574.6800
Closed Sundays

Da Venanzo  

Pizza a taglio.

A tiny take out restaurant that goes beyond the "just another pizza-by-the-slice" joint. Always jammed with locals and students, there’s pizza al taglio of course, but also great lasagna and roasted chicken with rosemary potatoes. If you want a snack, try their potato crochets and crispy supplí (breaded and fried rice cakes) — the best in the city, always piping hot and joyously gooey. — Lynda Albertson*

Cash Only  
Via San Francesco a Ripa, 153, Rome, IT-RM Map
Tel. 06.589.7110
Closed Sundays


Cool Glass

Check out the web site and you’ll get the idea: Glass. Glass left, right, and center; in fact, you're sitting on glass. But not on thin ice. This trendy joint — an expense account haven — serves minimalist nouvelle Italian that’s interesting but often haphazard. Want black bread and micro-salads? You're in heaven. Wine list is extensive but pricey. Take a client who's paying. A Manhattan-L.A. wannabe, yet stylish and then some. Michelin-starred in 2010. — Cristina Polli

Major Credit Cards  
Vicolo del Cinque, 58, Rome, IT-RM Map
Tel. 06.5833.5903
Closed Mondays

Il Boom  

A poster Boom.

Step into the 1960s Dolce Vita in this homey Trastevere trattoria. Huge photos from Italy’s neo-realist films (Fellini, Rossellini, Antonioni... and their prodigal son, Mastroianni) adorn the walls and period-piece photo books line the shelves. There’s even a juke box The menu is simple and creative. Start with a variety of crostini and try the exceptionally good pasta with ricotta and rucola. Live music (1960s and jazz) every Tuesday evening from 11-12 p.m. — Kristine Crane

Major Credit Cards  
Via dei Fienaroli, 30a, Rome, IT-RM Map
Tel. 06.589.7196
Closed Sundays

Il Ciak  

Vicolo del Cinque.

Good, simple greens and potatoes will keep omnivores happy while devouring a good steak. Expect mostly Tuscan fare; you can pick your meat. In summer, phone ahead. Run by a former actor named Paolo Celli (who could forget the l'Ossessa, known in English as, um, "The Sexorcist" ...) Nice wall of the stars: Frank Sinatra, Brigitte Bardot, Alain Delon, Francis Ford Coppola, Al Pacino, and Sly Stallone. Hearty pappardelle al sugo di lepere, noodles in rabbit sauce. Dinner only. — Judy Edelhoff

Major Credit Cards  
Vicolo del Cinque, 21, Rome, IT-RM Map
Tel. 06.589.4774
Closed Mondays

Il Galeone di Corsetti  

A bad trap...

Inside, a seafaring theme is telling of the menu, but the mediocre cuisine needs a lot of work and an update. For now, the truth is that Il Galeone di Corsetti is little more than a giant tourist trap with unexeceptional food and a garden, which is regrettably the only highlight. Closed for Wednesday lunch. — Judy Edelhoff

Major Credit Cards  
Piazza San Cosimato, 27, Rome, IT-RM Map
Tel. 06.581.6311
Open Daily

L'Oasi della Birra  

500 beers at the Oasis.

Relaxing place to go for a beer, but beware the somewhat shoddy service: If they don't like what you're wearing that day, or your company, service slides. A friend of mine asked for prosecco and got a very tart white wine (alas, without paying for it). They have more than 500 varieties of beer, but go with a clear idea of what you want: In line with their service, advice here tends to be lackluster. Avoid ordering a full meal (I had the worst pasta e ceci of my life). Cheese and meat plates are decent, and their specialty is wurstel and rye bread. Outdoor seating all year round, but be prepared to wait. Eating inside (but downstairs) can be a cozy winter experience. Great place to buy wine as they regularly have special offers (three bottles of Nero d'Avola for €10). — Kristine Crane

Major Credit Cards  
Piazza Testaccio, 38/42A., Rome, IT-RM Map
Tel. 06.574.0039
Open Daily

Le Mani in Pasta  

Kitchen view...

This newish (2003) off-the-beaten tourist track restaurant near Santa Cecilia gets praise for pasta with clams and tuna eggs or mixed grilled seafood. Try spaghetti vernacci with ricotta, pancetta, and fresh nutmeg and sea bass carpaccio with shaved black truffles, lightly dressed with lemon juice and extra virgin olive oil. Deserts include apple crepes with a caramel sauce and gelato mascarpone. Located half way down an alley, so just keep looking! — Judy Edelhoff

Via dei Genovesi, 37, Rome, IT-RM Map
Tel. 06.581.6017
Closed Mondays

Nuovo Mondo  

Pizza with bresaola.

You really can’t go wrong with the light and crunchy pizza. But go also for the atmosphere: marble-top tables, hand-drawn menus on the walls, the gush of stove heat greeting you at the door, waiters who aren’t afraid to show some personality. "Nuovo Mondo" is an old style pizzeria named to boast of what it isn’t. They start you off with abundant fried appetizers, or the tastier (and lighter) "vegetarian" appetizer of breaded zucchine, mushrooms and eggplants. Beer is the best drink companion, but the house wine is decent and cheap, and the homemade grappa and amaro worthwhile (and necessary!). No reservations, so expect to wait. Tables outside, depending on the season. — Judy Edelhoff

Major Credit Cards  
Amerigo Vespucci, 9, Rome, IT-RM Map
Tel. 06.574.6004
Closed Wednesdays


Romolo's garden of delights.

There’s no doubt that the food could be more distinguished, but Romolo nonetheless boasts one of Rome’s loveliest (and most romantic) spring and summer dinner gardens. Rafaello hung out here. Typical Città Eterna fare (mozzarella alla Milanese, fettucine, saltimbocca, lombatina, orate, rombo) takes on a new dimension when you eating it in the quiet, 25-table garden in the heart of ancient Trastevere. But it’s pricey. And in summer the mosquitoes can decide they want you as much as you want your meal. — Cristina Polli

Major Credit Cards  
Via Porta Settimiana, 8, Rome, IT-RM Map
Tel. 06.581.8284/581.3873
Closed Mondays


Francesco Sabatini in the 90s.

Once upon a time, Sabbatini was made from dreams. You’d dine deliciously while looking out over Piazza Santa Maria, which at least in summer was a wonder of the world. You’d see Henry Kissinger or James Taylor perhaps, or Fellini and his entourage. Those were the days, my friend. Not that the view has changed. Rome preserves such things. What it doesn’t treasure sufficiently is quality.

Sabbatini, opened in 1954 by two young brothers, has fallen off its 60s/70s heyday for reasons as mysterious as the essence of romance. The antipasti and main courses (the usual Rome suspects: carbonara, grilled beef, piccata, pollo con peperoncini, as well as a rich assortment of white fish) remain more or less what they were. And they still make you wait for an outdoor reservation no matter how far in advance you booked it. The once-stalwart food of the Rome celebrity are is now traveled, predictable, almost charmless. Maybe it’s aging ownership. Maybe it’s Rome’s new cigarette-free world. But Sabbatini just pumps it out and lets the venue do the rest. That’s not enough when the bill comes to €150-200 in two (assuming a decent red). If only Fellini could come back to make it all more worthwhile. Dream on. — David R. Deropolous

Major Credit Cards  
Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere, 13, Rome, IT-RM Map
Tel. 06.581.2026
Open Daily

Spirito Di Vino  

Don't forget to go downstairs.

Family-run, with all the incumbent idiosyncrasies: an owner (Romeo) who talks a mile a minute about the Jewish catacombs on which his place sits, a son (Francesco) who knows fine wine, and a chef (la mamma, Eliana Catalani) who worked with Rita Levi-Montalcini on her Nobel Prize-winning research in medicine, and should win the as-yet undesignated food Nobel. Racheal Ray loved it. Maiale alla Mazio (a Rome-era pig recipe; beef filet with chutney; bean crepes with salt cod meat...) All in all, indescribable, inventive, idiosyncratic, and delicious. Go. Reservations fundamental. — Cristina Polli

Major Credit Cards  
Via dei Genovesi, 31 a/b/Vicolo dell’Atleta, 13/15, Rome, IT-RM Map
Tel. 06.589.6689
Closed Sundays

Taverna dei Mercanti  

Tomato bruschetta.

Atmosphere is cozy, with torches outside, bricks and iron ornamentation inside. Urge the owner Davide to open the first floor room and light the fireplace, which he insists (quite dramatically) is reserved only for "choreographic" occasions. So make your own occasion: phone ahead, then (in winter) cozy up to the hearth, if they agree to light it. Big candles at each tables get you into the mood, with an assist from bruschetta or pizza. The piazza outside often sports strolling minstrels. — Judy Edelhoff

Major Credit Cards  
Piazza de' Mercanti, 3/A, Rome, IT-RM Map
Tel. 06.588.1693
Closed Sundays

Taverna Trilussa  

Taverna Trilussa's carbonara.

Off Trastevere’s beaten path, this festive restaurant is great for large groups. The menu is limited and heavily favors carne — meat — but the classic Roman pastas served in frying pans are guaranteed to delight no matter how many times you’ve had carbonara. Lovely outdoor seating in the warmer months. No lunch. — Matt Santaspirt

Via del Politeama, 23-25, Rome, IT-RM Map
Tel. 06.581.8918
Open Daily

The Kitchen  

Hip in Testaccio.

This softly lit, minimalist-design restaurant on the fringes of Testaccio offers creative Mediterranean cuisine with a presentation that is modern in everything but the ample size of the portions. Something for every taste, from octopus carpaccio to steak to vegetarian cous cous. The service is friendly but somewhat distracted. Lunch and dinner served. Closed Monday lunch. — Cristina Polli

Major Credit Cards  
Via dei Conciatori, 3, Rome, IT-RM Map
Tel. 06.574.1505
Closed Sundays

Vizi Capitali  

You're "spoiled" by Vizi...

The aim of this refined eatery (and enoteca) is to spoil. The antipasto is a meal in itself: Carpaccio with honeydew melon, speck wrapped around generous mounds of ricotta, all on a bed of rucola salad. Skip munching on the crostini and fresh bread to save room for a primo: Scrumptious gnocchi stuffed with sheep’s cheese and zucchini, doused in a delicate cream sauce. Finish with the "cornucopia," a bugle pastry shell stuffed with vanilla cream and fresh berries, brushed with powdered sugar. Lunch groups by reservation only. — Cristina Polli

Major Credit Cards  
Vicolo della Renella, 94, Rome, IT-RM Map
Tel. 06.5818.840; 347.2690.8738
Closed Sundays

Day and Boarding International High School in the Heart of Rome

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