January 18, 2018 | Rome, Italy | °C
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Restaurants in Termini/Esquilino

Agata e Romeo  


Outstanding... and too expensive.

Husband-and-wife Agata Parisella and Romeo Caraccio run a tight ship. This is Rome nouvelle cuisine at its finest. Here’s some of it in English to avoid cutesy-long Italian descriptions: rabbit croquettes, stewed oxtail with celery, medallions of tuna coated with sesame seeds, and Islandic baccalà (cod). For desert, chocolate concoctions galore. The duplex setting is refined, the service gracious, the overall quality of food and presentation outstanding. So where’s the beef? Price. When a tasting menu tops €100 it severs the link between upscale tasteful and outrageous. Here, it's €125 and climbing. Go à la carte and you can spend €150-200 a head. Agata has written cookbooks and talked food on TV. That’s great, but it also adds a branding factor and cranks up the prices further. It’s admittedly a tough call — the Roman variation food’s so good and inventive — but these people need to rein it in a bit, at the risk of becoming examples of a 21st century boutique restaurant that caters only to the rich, shocking and awing all the rest. Bear in mind it closes down from mid-August to around Sept. 10. — David R. Deropolous

Major Credit Cards  
Via Carlo Alberto, 45, Rome, IT-RM Map
Tel. 06.446.6115
http://www.agataeromeo.it
Closed Sundays, Closed Saturday


Da Vincenzo  


"Rhumbus," or rombo: turbot

If you happen to have time to kill before a train departure, or are simply looking for an upscale alternative to some of the creepy places near Termini, then this is the place for seafood, where Roman businessmen dine at lunch. Locals come to Da Vincenzo for dinner, and I like to bring visitors whose time is limited but want a good meal before hitting the rails. Delightful errors on the menu, including: "Tagliolini with dormouses" and "Rhombus fish with baked potatoes." And no, we won’t explain. — Judy Edelhoff

Visa/Mastercard  
Via Castelfidardo, 4-6, Rome, IT-RM Map
Tel. 06.484.596
Closed Sundays


Osteria degli Artisti  


Polpette al sugo

American author Gary Shteyngart raves: "The appetizers alone are enough to jolt me out of my antiseptic North American life and into a world of fresh escarole mixed with golden raisins, pine nuts, and capers, all soaked in a deep-yellow pool of olive oil...." Such revery collide with what’s essentially down-to-earth and workmanlike Esquilino trattoria with a Neapolitan flavor. Heavier dishes win out over subtltey: polpette al sugo, big and tasty veal meatballs; alici ripiene al formaggio, cheese-basted anchovies. Satisfying but not outstanding. No doubt a great tonic for antiseptic North Americans. — David R. Deropolous

Visa/Mastercard  
Via Germano Sommeiller, 6, Rome, IT-RM Map
Tel. 06.701.8148
Closed Sundays


Rossini Restaurant  


Sfogliatine croccanti con rughetta.

This dining den for opera divas now has Sardinian chef Vincenzo Loi’s international experience (Spain, Asia, Switzerland) to concoct with flavors beyond traditional Roman fare (which is also available). Spicy ginger sauce adds zest to prawns. Black truffles sensually enhance cream of leek and wild mushroom soup. Fillet of branzino (sea bass) layered in crisp phyllo pastry with vegetables was splendid both in flavor and its architecture. Vanilla soufflé with bittersweet chocolate sorbet was an excellent variation on the usual. Look for tiny cookies or homemade chocolates. Attentive service extends into the interior courtyard in nice weather. Near Piazza della Repubblica in the Albergo Quirinale. — Judy Edelhoff

Major Credit Cards  
Via Nazionale, 7, Rome, IT-RM Map
Tel. 06.470.771/06.470.777
Open Daily


Target Restaurant  


Saltimbocca at Target.

An elegant pizza and grill spot just off Via Nazionale. Good for an after-movie pizza or a full meal (downstairs there's a pizzeria while the quieter upscale restaurant is up top). Downstairs, where prices are cheap and the mood chic, is favorite hangout for soccer players and TV hotties. Meals are solid Roman: veal, chicken, and salads. Tough going to find a spot on Friday and Saturday nights; reserve. — Cristina Polli

Major Credit Cards  
Via Torino, 33, Rome, IT-RM Map
Tel. 06.474.0066
http://www.targetandcompany.it/restaurant/home_eng.htm
Open Daily


Trimani Il Wine Bar  


Wine and mousse at Trimani.

A wonderful place to come for a simple, light lunch with dishes such as salads, cheese plates and quiche, all in the company of an abundance of wine (the list is vast and also include rum, grappe and whisky,). For dessert try the Verduzzo di Ronco di Viere (chestnut mousse served with a sauce of white wine). It's bathed in whipped cream and meringue. Also, limonata for the kids. Usually puts you out €30 to €35, depending on your wine choices. — Kristine Crane

Major Credit Cards  
Via Cernaia, 37b, Rome, IT-RM Map
Tel. 06.446.9630
http://www.trimani.com
Closed Sundays



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