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Restaurants in Capri

Buca di Bacco  

Greek whites in Capri.

Don't make the common mistake. This is not the more upscale Buco di Bacco of Positano. Instead, it's a fairly simple fish, seafood, and pizza hole-in-the-wall that operates in the once-upon-a-time style of a trattoria — they give you their best. The whited, Greek-style vaulted arches give the place its inner flavor. If you have doubts about seafood and meats (don't), grab a Pizza Napoletana (the kitchen skink) and relax. The restaurant is at Via Longano 35 — a street that leads from Piazza Umberto. — Katrina Maiano

Major Credit Cards  
Piazza Umberto I, Capri, IT-NA Map
Tel. 081.837.0723
Closed Wednesdays

Da Gemma  

Graham Greene's favorite...

This gem — la mamma's name was Gemma — has been around since 1936 and is located off famous Piazzale Roma. There’s a huge bar full of mixed vegetables and other antipasti. Pizza is moderately priced. Wait staff is very, very polite and helpful. Was author Graham Greene's hangout in the time he spent on the island ("The unadulterated simplicity of Gemma’s restaurant was a stable factor that helped make the island agreeable to Graham," Shirley Hazzard wrote in "Greene on Capri"; another world...) Located at Via Madre Serafina, 6, two minutes from Piazza Umberto I. — David Amory

Major Credit Cards  
Piazza Umberto I, Capri, IT-NA Map
Tel. 081.837.0461/837.0386
Closed Mondays

Da Paolino  

Under the lemon trees...

You’ll sit under oodles of lemons at this very popular restaurant also known as The Lemon Tree. Go hungry otherwise you won’t make it past the immense buffet of antipasti. Try the spaghetti con patelle, linguine with mussels, spaghetti with rucola and clams or rigatoni with zucchini flowers. Select your own fresh fish. And don’t forget the limoncello. Best to take a taxi since the restaurant is very difficult to reach on foot along the hills. Reservations essential. Dinner only in summer. — Kelly Carter

Major Credit Cards  
Via Palazzo a Mare, 11, Capri, IT-NA Map
Tel. 081.837.6102/838.9410


Where's the beef?

It looks like Little Polynesia, kitsch and quaint, with tables in huts covered by awnings and wisteria leaning close enough to whisper. Sadly, kitsch and quaint aren’t edible, nor is wisteria, because what is on the menu is workmanlike at best. Faraglioni is a Capri fashion victim: Too well-located and too available to undiscerning tourism. My straccetti con gamberi e pomodorini (shrimp and cherry tomatoes in a green pasta) was overcooked and my lobster a skimpy example of a robust species. Bills are far too high. All in all, mediocrity that's pretty to behold. Closed November-March. — David R. Deropolous

Major Credit Cards  
Via Camerelle, 75, Capri, IT-NA Map
Tel. 081.837.0320
Open Daily

Il Grottino  

Quiet grace in Capri.

How can restaurant so lacking in the ostentatious — it’s just a neat, large room off a narrow street — be so strangely magical? Maybe it’s a case of vive la difference all’italiana. On an island of stunning vistas, this is a down home place that offers solemnity, quiet, calm, and very good food. Those simple virtues offset its lack of outdoor tables and breathtaking views. The Arbace family has managed Il Grottino for seven centuries and it hasn’t changed much since 1970, about the time restaurant shed its celebrity status — once upon a time the Kennedy family came here, as did Jacky O. and Ginger Rogers. It’s a quick walk from Piazza Umberto, serves Naples and Campania staples (gnocchi, fish, and many fine fried and can’t miss breaded mozzarellas). Some tourists find Grottino’s service aloof. Others cite arrogance. They’re a minority. In fact, it’s a stylish little remnant of a place that catered to a well-dressed, sophisticated "tourist" clientele, and suffers its absence with difficulty. Closed November-March. The restaurant is at Via Longano 9 — a street that leads from Piazza Umberto. — Christopher P. Winner

Major Credit Cards  
Piazza Umberto I, Capri, IT-NA Map
Tel. 081.837.0584
Open Daily

Il Quisi  

Air from the sea...

Chef Stefano Mazzone of Capri’s cappo di tutti capi luxury hotel takes a light, nouvelle approach to seafood, making some of the Meds heavier fishes delightfully airy. The arrival of the hotel’s newest restaurant, the street-level Rendez-Vous, probably gave Mazzone a few tips, with its sushi-influences. Scallops, for example, are "tinted" lightly with broccoli, parmigiano and Modena Balsamico. Lobster gets gnocchetti, foie gras has an escort of brown sugar, rose leaves with rhubarb compote and raspberry coulis. Honey and black pepper spice up pink duck breast while veal is caramelized baby onions. It's top-of-the-line luxury that with good wine is rich going, to the tune (a la carte) of €150 and up. Prix fix menus are lower. — Katrina Maiano

Major Credit Cards  
Via Camerelle, 2, Capri, IT-NA Map
Tel. 081.837.0788
Open Daily

La Capannina  

The perfect door.

Francesco De Angelis is a soft-spoken, classy gentleman and his charming restaurant reflects a pre-mobile phone approach to living and dining. The doorway has a doll-house look and the walls are predictably lined with photographs of visiting celebrities (an Amalfi Coast necessity), but the effect is muted. De Angelis doesn’t really need you to look. The covered veranda is delightful (in the back; the front is narrower and more cluttered), though you'll need to ask for it specifically when you book. The house label Capri white is refreshing with a caprese (fresh tomatoes and mozzarella) or veal. Pasta-wise, try ravioli capresi, linguine con lo scorfano (flat spaghetti with scorpion fish), and pezzogna, sea bream a casserole with baked potatoes. Spend a few minutes in the bakeries near the restaurant before dining and munch on assorted taralli biscuits. Closed November-March and Wednesday in March and October, after the tourist rush. Booking a must. — Katrina Maiano

Major Credit Cards  
Via Le Botteghe 12b, Capri, IT-NA Map
Tel. 081.8370732
Open Daily

La Fontelina  

The hungering...

Seafood by the sea and under a limestone cliff at this lunch-only Faraglioni staple, which exists to be exotic. Unless you own a yacht (and some folk here do), take a boat from Marina Tragara (the grand entrance) or wind your way down after strolling beyond the dead-end of Punta Tragara. The fish fare is fair enough (bream-like pezzogna, octopus, tiny clams prawns), but the sliver of rocks and beach tends to pack up excessively in summer. If seafood isn’t your speed, try polpette di melanzane. There’s also a buffet and sangria. Best months are May, early June and September, just before the Capri summer onslaught, and lunch-time heat that can make you want to be anyplace but on a "beach." Expect to pay at least €60 a head. Closed October through Easter. Again, lunch only! — Katrina Maiano

Major Credit Cards  
Località Faraglioni, Capri, IT-NA Map
Tel. 081.837.0845
Open Daily

Ristorante Aurora  

Always busy in summer.

Pizza lovers flock here for the pizza all’acqua — thin pizza with mozzarella and a sprinkling of peperoncino. Outdoor tables in summer make this the perfect place to see and be seen. For privacy seekers, there is an indoor area too. Food is secondary to the scene, which is genuinely fun. Closed January and February. Ope daily in summer. Reservations essential. — Kelly Carter

Major Credit Cards  
Via Fuorlovado, 18/22, Capri, IT-NA Map
Tel. 081.837.0181
Open Daily

Terrazza Brunella  

A place to propose...

Perhaps the most romantic small terrace in Capri, and that’s saying a lot. Vincenzo Ruggiero ensures that his hotel restaurant has an identity separate from the hotel, which is a converted villa (like so many other commercial structures on the island). Get an unobstructed table here and Marina Piccola and the entire spread of the Eastern side of the island is yours. The menu is typical and straightforward: Bresaola rughetta e parmigiano, risotto al limone, sogliola alla mugnaia (sole) — and it's all quite fine. And beside the point. This a place to fall deeper in love, or to propose. Get a bottle of Falanghina in the summer and just sit back. If it rains, no matter. The view from behind the panes, while not as spectacular, has its own charm. — Katrina Maiano

Major Credit Cards  
Via Tragara, 24/a, Capri, IT-NA Map
Tel. 081.837.0122
Open Daily

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