The American: For Italy & the World
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Watching for a wink
Umbrian nuns once took up refuge in a lovely valley, though loveliness in the Middle Ages was relative.
While it's easy to idealize a "nonna" cooking for the kids in a bucolic kitchen, rural realities were different.
Participating in a grape harvest is great way to meet people, break a sweat (and bread), and pick up delicious recipes.
Celebrity chef creativity is fine. Calling Italian dishes Italian when they're personal twists is not.
The joy of Umbria isn't merely art and nature, but craftsmen who make even little things ornate, including paper.