The American: For Italy & the World
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Overstepping the mark
Perugia has a troika of protector saints but only one of them is endowed with a special romantic gift.
Umbrian nuns once took up refuge in a lovely valley, though loveliness in the Middle Ages was relative.
While it's easy to idealize a "nonna" cooking for the kids in a bucolic kitchen, rural realities were different.
Participating in a grape harvest is great way to meet people, break a sweat (and bread), and pick up delicious recipes.
The joy of Umbria isn't merely art and nature, but craftsmen who make even little things ornate, including paper.