December 8, 2009 | Rome, Italy | Fog, 8°C

Generations, passing

Sometimes, it takes something as simple as an apple pie to give flavor the sadder side of the passage of time.


Sex and the single "I"

Prurient interest may vary from country-to-country, but voyeuristic appetites are a constant.


Paris in wonderland

When it's time to leave Europe behind, go out with a bang.


Song, dance, game

I'm separated, live with my girlfriend... now then, will you be my lover?


FEATURES

Area 51

The shattered game

Even a compressed history of Afghanistan shows a cycle of illusion and despair.

Man About Rome

All crossed up

Do Italy a favor. End the debate. Nix the Lateran Treaty once and for all.

American Girl

Theoretically

"I know this is probably not what you wanted to hear. But the truth is, I already have a girlfriend."

Milan Notebook

Demerits

Italy is a country that systematically keeps merit at bay, at it's own risk.

Due Diligence

Apple pie

A dying mother brings back the subtle and many-layered importance of an old delight.

View from Spoleto

Bocciato

Tourists often perceive Italy as consistently charming. Expats, however, can face a darker side.


DECEMBER CHESTNUTS

Don't forget the Novello


LIVING

The L-Word

Alice and Guillaume

A perfectly normal night in the life of two lovers.

Bella Figura

Miami vice

Marriage can make getting permits that much easier, but where did you say you were born?

Parenthood

Rock my world

Leaping into parenting pushing 40 is quite a trick. Here are some pointers.

Wonderland

Castle in the clouds

Take Italian preteens to Ireland and you get a delightful hormonal stew.

Pets Abroad

Draw my unicorn

Immortalizing an animal is a Herculean task, all the more reason to try.


TRAVEL

The Casual Traveler

Post-Communist chic

In Croatia, even Plitvice's fairytale surroundings can take some getting used to.

The Hiker

Change of air

The Resegone straddles Lecco and Bergamo, its razor-like Dolomite ridges sharp as teeth.


WHERETOEAT

A carbonara heaven

A very peppery carbonara at Rome's Ciccia Bomba ai Parioli.


TOURIST Q&A

The work permit conundrum

If you're a U.S. citizen, working in Italy legally involves some hard work.


WHAT'SON

Cold-weather outs

Devendra Banhart plays Rome's Auditorium on Dec. 20. Also, English-language film.


FOOD

Suzanne's Taste

Proof of pudding

Contrary to what you might think, plum pudding has no plums.

Annie's Kitchen

Pleasure root

Cooking with the hallowed white truffle is an exercise in care and reverence.

Lynda's Wine

Chestnut wine

Chesnuts and some sweet seasonal Novello are a great way to usher in winter.

Da Germano

Fried autumn

A drive to Viterbo yields a tasty idea: spaghetti risottato.


FILM

PICKS&PUNTS: Desperately Seeking Susan

A vintage 1980s screwball comedy gets a boost from Madonna and Arquette.

DVDS: The X Files: I Want to Believe

The problem with the 21st century X-Files is vanished wit.


BOOKS

THE A-LIST: Invisible

No magic in Auster's latest, sex-addled fable about identity.

SCRIPTORIUM: Roth's cracked mirror

Book no. 30 is a white-knuckled detailing of self-deceit.









PHOTO ALBUM
Lead years
PETS
Brushstrokes
DIRECTORS
Sorrentino at large
BAD LAW
Cross to bear
BUREAUCRACY
5 easy minutes